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February has finally brought some winter time with a little snow storm and -23C outside. Now is the perfect time to get a new pair of mittens to cover my hands and outplay someone in snowballs. An extra bonus if you have already made a hat or a headband with the same pattern to get a beautiful handmade set. A side note – in this pattern of cable mittens, the left and the right mitten is knitted differently, so pay attention to the instructions and feel free to ask questions. Check out my bulky braided knit headband pattern and gradient two-color knit hat pattern for knitting a complete set.
Knitting materials and tools:
<> 5 Double Pointed Knitting Needles 3 mm (UK 11 or US 3). You can also use 16” Circular Knitting Needles and magic loop technique to knit in the round;
<> Gazzal (baby wool) yarn. Medium, 40% Lana Merino, 20% Cashmere Pa, 40% acrylic. Teal blue color. 50 grams -100 m per skein – in total 1.5 balls;
Teal ocean cable knit mittens size:
Wrist size 16-20 сm
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette (body)
32 stitches = 4 inches in ribbing – not stretched (cuff)
Common abbreviations of knitting stitches:
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit two together
inc – increase
sl st – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
m1r – make 1 right: pick up bar bringing left hand needle from the front to the back, then knit the bar through the back loop.
m1l – make 1 left: pick up bar bringing left hand needle from the back to the front, then knit the bar through the front loop.
Cable 3 Back (C3B): Slip 3 knit stitches to the extra needle and hold in back of work, 3k from the left hand needle, 3k from the extra needle.
Cable 3 Front (C3F): Slip 3 knit stitches to the extra needle and hold in front of work, 3k from the left hand needle, 3k from the extra needle.
skpo – Slip, Knit, Pass Over: Slip one stitch to the right needle knitwise, knit in the next stitch and drop this stitch off the left needle, insert the left needle into the slipped stitch, pass it over the knit stitch and it’s done.
Cable knit mittens pattern
Right cable mitten
Knitting the cuff of cable mitten:
Cast on 40 stitches and divide between 4 needles (10 stitches each needle). Join to work in the round. Check small video tutorial how to join in the round on DPN or circular needles. You can place marker to mark beginning of the round.
Rib (k2, p2) until piece measures 7.5 cm or 3”
From this point it is better to place stitches from the first and second needles on one and work on 3 DP needles..
Knitting main part of cable mittens:
In the first Round I am going to add 4 stitches in the cabling part. Why? Because cables can make mittens too tight and at the end small for your hand’s size.
I am going to increase from the previous round to get in total 44 stitches.
Round 1: p1, k1, p1, k1, inc, k1, k3, inc, k1, k3, inc, k1, k3, inc, k1, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 2: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
From the third round we are going to make increases for the thumb.
Round 3: p1, k1(always knit together yo and sl st from the previous round), p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1(always knit together yo and sl st from the previous round), p1, k12, m1r, k8.
Round 4: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k21. (in total 45 stitches)
Round 5: p1, k1, p1, k6, C3B, C3B, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k9.
Round 6: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k22.
Round 7: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k10.
Round 8: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k23.
Round 9: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k11.
Round 10: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k24.
Round 11: p1, k1, p1, C3F, C3F, k6, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k12.
Round 12: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k25. (in total 49 stitches)
Round 13: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k13.
Round 14: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k26.
Round 15: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k14.
Round 16: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k27.
Round 17: p1, k1, p1, k6, C3B, C3B, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k15.
Round 18: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k28.
Round 19: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k16.
Round 20: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k29.
Round 21: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k17.
Round 22: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k30.
Round 23: p1, k1, p1, C3F, C3F, k6, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1r, k18.
Round 24: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k31. At this point you did 11 increases.
Round 25: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, place next 12 stitches on hold (in my case it is a piece of waste yarn but you can also use a safety pin), cast on 1 stitch, k19.
Now the total number of increases are equal the number of stitches that we placed on hold is 12. Knit Round 26 and couple of the next rounds as tight as possible in the place where you added a stitch, otherwise you might end up with a big hole.
Round 26: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 27: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 28: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 29: p1, k1, p1, k6, C3B, C3B, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 30: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 31: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 32: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 33: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 34: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 35: p1, k1, p1, C3F, C3F, k6, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 36: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 37: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 38: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 39: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 40: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 41: p1, k1, p1, k6, C3B, C3B, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 42: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 43: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 44: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
Round 45: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k20.
Round 46: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k20.
In the Round 47 we are going to decrease 4 stitches that we added at the beginning.
Round 47: p1, k1, p1, [slip 3 knit stitches to the extra needle and hold in front of work, k2tog, k1 from the left hand needle, k2tog, k1 from the extra needle] – twice, k6, p1, k1, p1, k20. (40 stitches left)
Round 48: skpo, p1, k14, p1, k2tog, k1, skpo, k14, k2tog, k1.
Round 49: [k1, skpo, k12, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 50: [k1, skpo, k10, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 51: [k1, skpo, k8, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 52: [k1, skpo, k6, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 53: [k1, skpo, k4, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 54: [k1, skpo, k2, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 55: [k1, skpo, k2tog, k1] – twice.
Round 56: [skpo, k2tog] – twice. (4 stitches left)
Break the yarn leaving 7-8 cm or 3” tail, weave through the remaining 4 stitches and pull tight to close the top.
Knitting gusset section of cable mittens:
Move stitches from holder to 2 DP Needles. Knit all 12 stitches. Using one more DP needle pick up and knit at the same time 5 more stitches from the hand. Knit every round until thumb measures 5.5-6 cm (2.2”). Before decreasing rounds knit once k2tog to make the total number of stitches equal to 16.
Start decreasing rounds.
Round 1: [k2tog] – 8 times
Round 2: [k2tog] – 4 times
Round 3: [k2tog] – 2 times
Round 4: [k2tog] – 1 time
Left cable mitten:
Repeat all steps till the 3d Round.
Round 3: p1, k1(always knit together yo and sl st from the previous round), p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1(always knit together yo and sl st from the previous round), p1, k8, m1l, k12.
Round 4: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k21.
Round 5: p1, k1, p1, k6, C3B, C3B, p1, k1, p1, k9, m1l, k12.
Round 6: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k22.
Round 7: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k10, m1l, k12.
Round 8: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k23.
Round 9: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k11, m1l, k12.
Round 10: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k24.
Round 11: p1, k1, p1, C3F, C3F, k6, p1, k1, p1, k12, m1l, k12.
Round 12: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k25. (in total 49 stitches)
Round 13: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k13, m1l, k12.
Round 14: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k26.
Round 15: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k14, m1l, k12.
Round 16: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k27.
Round 17: p1, k1, p1, k6, C3B, C3B, p1, k1, p1, k15, m1l, k12.
Round 18: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k28.
Round 19: p1, k1, p1, k9, C3B, k3, p1, k1, p1, k16, m1l, k12.
Round 20: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k29.
Round 21: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k17, m1l, k12.
Round 22: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k30.
Round 23: p1, k1, p1, C3F, C3F, k6, p1, k1, p1, k18, m1l, k12.
Round 24: p1, yo, sl st, p1, k18, p1, yo, sl st, p1, k31. At this point you did 11 increases.
Round 25: p1, k1, p1, k3, C3F, k9, p1, k1, p1, k19, cast on 1 stitch, place next 12 stitches on hold (in my case it is a piece of waste yarn but you can also use a safety pin).
All other rounds and gusset section will be done in the same way as for the right mitten.
