Contents
Knitting materials and tools:
Circular knitting needles 4.5 mm (US 7/UK 7). To achieve a tubular edge for 1×1 ribbing, start with 3.5 mm (US 4) needles, or use 4.5 mm needles for a long- tail cast-on.
Long mink wool (Cashmere) yarn – 75% wool, 25% nylon: 50 grams – 338 m per skein. Note: Knit with 4 strands of main and 2 strands of reinforcing (partner) yarn together.
Weight Category – Fingering. Quantity – 2 balls. If you have difficulty to find aforementioned brand of yarn, use bulky weight yarn. !!!!!Check your gauge before knitting!!!!
Button (with a diameter 2 cm), 26 stitch markers.
Knit winter bandana size:
Head circumference: Teen/Adult: 53-59 cm (21-22”)
Gauge: 15-16 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
Common abbreviations of knit stitches:
k – knit
blo – back loop only
p – purl
pm – place stitch marker
k2tog – knit two together
st(s) – stitch(es)
sel s – selvage stitch: always slip the first stitch knitwise, work to the last stitch, purl the last stitch
Winter bandana (kerchief) knitting pattern:
To create a tubular edge for 1×1 ribbing, use 3.5 mm knitting needles and the Italian cast-on method. Cast on 85 stitches. Refer to the video tutorial at 3:10 for guidance. If the Italian cast-on method feels too challenging, you can use 4.5 mm knitting needles and the long-tail cast-on method as an alternative.
Row 1 (3.5 mm needle): sel s, [k1blo, slip next stitch holding working yarn in front] – repeat across, k1blo, sel s.
Row 2 (3.5 mm needle): sel s, [slip next stitch holding working yarn in front, k1] – repeat across, slip next stitch holding working yarn in front, sel s.
Switch to larger knitting needles. If you used the long-tail cast-on method, skip Rows 1 and 2 and begin directly with Row 3.
Row 3: sel s, [k1, p1] – repeat across, k1, sel s.
Row 4: sel s, [p1, k1] – repeat across, p1, sel s.
Row 5: sel s, [k1, p1] – repeat across, k1, sel s.
Row 6 (buttonhole): sel s, [p1, k1] – repeat across until 5 stitches remain. Then, k1, p1, slip the knit stitch over the purl stitch, k1, slip the previous stitch over the knitted stitch, p1, sel s.
Count 7 stitches from the right and left sides and place stitch markers at those points.
Row 7: sel s, k1, p1, add 2 sts, [k1,p1] – repeat across until 7 stitches remain. Turn.
Row 8: bring the working yarn in front and slip the next stitch purlwise. Then pull the working yarn to the back of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one (let’s call it double stitch). Pm, [k1, p1] – repeat across until 7 stitches remain. Turn.
Row 9: slip the next stitch knitwise. pull the working yarn to the front of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. Pm, [p1, k1] – repeat across until 1 stitch remains before the stitch marker. Turn.
Row 10: bring the working yarn in front and slip the next stitch purlwise. Then pull the working yarn to the back of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. Pm (keeping the existing markers in place.), [k1, p1] – repeat across until 1 stitch remains before the stitch marker. Turn.
Row 11: slip the next stitch knitwise. pull the working yarn to the front of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. Pm, [p1, k1] – repeat across until 1 stitch remains before the stitch marker. Turn.
Repeat Rows 10-11 until there are 21 stitches between the central stitch markers. On the very last row, make a turn, slip the stitch, distort it, and then place a stitch marker. There are 13 stitch markers on the right side and 13 stitch markers on the left side.
To simplify, let’s restart counting the rows from the beginning.
Row 1: [p1, k1] – repeat 10 times, p1, remove the stitch markers, knit the double stitch as 1 stitch, p1, and turn. Do not remove the other stitch markers.
Row 2: slip the next stitch knitwise. Pull the working yarn to the front of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [p1, k1] – repeat across until the next stitch marker. Remove stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, k1, then turn.
Row 3: bring the working yarn in front and slip the next stitch purlwise. Then pull the working yarn to the back of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [k1, p1] – repeat across until the double stitch before the next stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, remove stitch marker, knit the next double stitch, p1, turn.
Row 4: slip the next stitch knitwise. Pull the working yarn to the front of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [p1, k1] – repeat across until the double stitch before the next stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch, remove the stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, k1. Turn.
Row 5: bring the working yarn in front and slip the next stitch purlwise. Then pull the working yarn to the back of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [k1, p1] – repeat across until the double stitch before the next stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, remove stitch marker, knit the next double stitch, p1, turn.
Row 6: slip the next stitch knitwise. Pull the working yarn to the front of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [p1, k1] – repeat across until the double stitch before the next stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch, remove the stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, k1. Turn.
Row 7: bring the working yarn in front and slip the next stitch purlwise. Then pull the working yarn to the back of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [k1, p1] – repeat across until the double stitch before the next stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, remove stitch marker, knit the next double stitch, p1, turn.
Row 8: slip the next stitch knitwise. Pull the working yarn to the front of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [p1, k1] – repeat across until the double stitch before the next stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch, remove the stitch marker. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, k1. Turn.
Repeat the last two rows until all stitch markers have been removed. Remove the very last stitch markers, knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop, k1. Turn.
Next Row: bring the working yarn in front and slip the next stitch purlwise. Then pull the working yarn to the back of your work over the top of the right-hand needle and distort the just slipped stitch, making it look like two stitches instead of one. [k1, p1] – repeat across until the double stitch. Knit the next double stitch as a purl stitch through the back loop. k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, sel s. Turn.
Next Row: sel s, [p1, k1] – repeat across until the double stitch. Knit the next double stitch, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, sel s.
Work the next two rows in ribbing, knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches as they appear.
Bind off in ribbing: slip the first stitch, k1, pass the slipped stitch over, p1, pass the previous stitch over, and repeat.
Bind off 12 stitches. Continue in ribbing to the end of the row. Turn.
Bind off 12 stitches. Continue in ribbing until 2 sts remain. K2tog. Turn.
Next Row: slip purlwise, continue in ribbing until 2 sts remain. K2tog. Turn.
Repeat the last row until 20 stitches remain.
Next Row: slip purlwise, continue in ribbing until 4 sts remain. K2tog, k2tog. Turn.
When you reach the last 4 stitches, for the next decrease, switch the positions of the knit and purl stitches to make the decrease look neater. Slip the knit stitch to an extra needle and hold it in front. Slip the purl stitch to the right-hand needle, return the knit stitch to the left-hand needle, then return the purl stitch and knit the two stitches together. For the second decrease, there’s no need to switch stitches.
Repeat the last row until 4 stitches remain. Bind off and cut the yarn. Weave in all ends. Wash the bandana and dry it flat. Sew on the button, and enjoy your masterpiece!